After breakfast, we set out for the long drive to the Khongor Sand Dunes. The Eastern Beauty Mountains of the Altai Range run nearly east to west from the east side of Dalangadzad. On Saturday, we drove about two hours along the northern edge of the mountains, some 70-80 kms to get to the Gobi Tour ger camp and the Flaming Cliffs. Today, we had a much longer trek of four hours to go some 130 kms, again along the northern edge of the mountains, but then cutting through a mountain pass to get to the sand dunes on the southern edge of the mountains.
Before breakfast, I got a few shots of the sunrise over the Gobi, and one of the clouds over the mountains to our south.
While walking around, I also found some more wildflowers - it had rained in the Gobi last week, so everything looks much greener and lusher than normal for this time of year.
I went into the restaurant ger for coffee before breakfast, and before the rest of the group came, I took a few photos.
After breakfast, we got under way. About 20 minutes later, we came to the small town of Bulgan and refueled at the one and only gas station. The Russian made van has two gas tanks, so after filling up the tank on the driver's side, they simply hand the hose under the van and fill up on the passenger side. It only took just under 100 liters (about 28 gallons).
We continued driving for about 90 minutes and stopped for a stretch break - I saw many entrances to underground homes. I am not sure exactly what they are; at first we thought they were some kind of ground squirrel, but we did learn later that some were made by the giant gerbil, an animal common to the Gobi. We also found some large bugs which we nicknamed desert bugs. In the next photo, the bug is just about the center - well camouflaged, and about 2.5 inches long.
In this photo, it is just to the right of center - if you click on the photo, it will be enlarged and you can zoom him to see it better.
Back in our sturdy van, we continued for another 90 minutes, turning into a mountain pass that follows a dry stream. We took another stretch break - with ten of us crowded into a nine person van, this was a necessary event.
We drove on, and soon came to the high point at the pass. Another Buddhist memorial, where we went around three times for good luck.
We also came across the first road sign we had seen in two days - only 14 more kms of dirt road to our ger camp.
After another 30 minutes of driving, we finally got to Gobi Erdene ger camp - it was even nicer than the Gobi Tour camp where we stayed Saturday evening. It has some 30 gers (they are seasonal, May to October) and about the same number of year round cabins.
They had a huge restaurant and bar.
Lunch included salad, soup with homemade bread and an entree plate beef, potatoes, rice and red cabbage cole slaw. I declined to stay for dessert. We had a scheduled nap period before our afternoon activities began at three.
Our first afternoon activity was camel riding. The first camel camp we went to had no camels for us - another one of the miscommunications during the trip. But hey, we were in the middle of the Gobi. So we went to another camel camp - there were several of them in this area near the middle of the Khongur Sand Dunes. The dunes are 180 kms (110 miles) long between the Gurvan Saikhan and Nemegt Ranges belonging to Gobi Altai Range. They are also quite tall. Like Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado, there is an underground river that surfaces a few kms away from us, runs above ground for about 10 kms and then runs back underground. That is why the camel camps are here - access to the river.
Our guide Bayarmar negotiated the rides and we started getting on our bactrian (two humped) camels.
And off we went. The lead camel was led by the farmer walking ahead, and each rider held the reins of the camel to their right and behind. The first group had four camels and my group had three, with me in the middle.
Here is a video I managed to shoot while holding the reins for Franz's camel and holding onto my camel's front hump.
After the camel ride, we visited the camel farmer's ger. I had hot goat milk tea, dried goat cheese with sugar and goat yogurt. His wife had handmade things to sell. His children were cute. We got to see what it is like to really live in a ger. There is no running water nearby - it must be fetched. As Julia Roberts learned in the video "Wild Horses of Mongolia" - there are no toilet facilities. But they have solar panels for electricity, satellite TV and multiple motorized vehicles in addition to the camels, goats and other livestock.
Here is a short video I took inside the farmer's ger. I then played it back to the children and parents. Everytime the girl saw the replay, she broke into a marvelous smile - I replayed it several times for her.
After the 90 minute camel ride, we set off in our trusty van and somehow safely drove across the river and to the sand dunes. We stayed there for about 30 minutes, then made the amazing trip back. After we got back across the river and up onto the riverbank, we broke out with cheers for the driver and his van - it was an amazing feat.
Back at the ger camp, cold beers and an amazing four course meal - salad, soup an entree plate of, sauteed onions and potatoes, cole slaw with seaweed, beef goulash and pasta, followed by cake for dessert.
This is what the ceiling looked like in our ger.
Before breakfast, I got a few shots of the sunrise over the Gobi, and one of the clouds over the mountains to our south.
While walking around, I also found some more wildflowers - it had rained in the Gobi last week, so everything looks much greener and lusher than normal for this time of year.
I went into the restaurant ger for coffee before breakfast, and before the rest of the group came, I took a few photos.
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| The entrance door |
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| The fully stocked bar with satellite TV and DVD player |
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| The all important beer cooler |
After breakfast, we got under way. About 20 minutes later, we came to the small town of Bulgan and refueled at the one and only gas station. The Russian made van has two gas tanks, so after filling up the tank on the driver's side, they simply hand the hose under the van and fill up on the passenger side. It only took just under 100 liters (about 28 gallons).
We continued driving for about 90 minutes and stopped for a stretch break - I saw many entrances to underground homes. I am not sure exactly what they are; at first we thought they were some kind of ground squirrel, but we did learn later that some were made by the giant gerbil, an animal common to the Gobi. We also found some large bugs which we nicknamed desert bugs. In the next photo, the bug is just about the center - well camouflaged, and about 2.5 inches long.
In this photo, it is just to the right of center - if you click on the photo, it will be enlarged and you can zoom him to see it better.
Back in our sturdy van, we continued for another 90 minutes, turning into a mountain pass that follows a dry stream. We took another stretch break - with ten of us crowded into a nine person van, this was a necessary event.
 |
| Munkh, our driver resting |
 | |
| Franz and Munkh |
We also came across the first road sign we had seen in two days - only 14 more kms of dirt road to our ger camp.
 |
| Franz up on the rise taking a photo of the sand dunes 14 kms away |
After another 30 minutes of driving, we finally got to Gobi Erdene ger camp - it was even nicer than the Gobi Tour camp where we stayed Saturday evening. It has some 30 gers (they are seasonal, May to October) and about the same number of year round cabins.
They had a huge restaurant and bar.
Lunch included salad, soup with homemade bread and an entree plate beef, potatoes, rice and red cabbage cole slaw. I declined to stay for dessert. We had a scheduled nap period before our afternoon activities began at three.
Our first afternoon activity was camel riding. The first camel camp we went to had no camels for us - another one of the miscommunications during the trip. But hey, we were in the middle of the Gobi. So we went to another camel camp - there were several of them in this area near the middle of the Khongur Sand Dunes. The dunes are 180 kms (110 miles) long between the Gurvan Saikhan and Nemegt Ranges belonging to Gobi Altai Range. They are also quite tall. Like Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado, there is an underground river that surfaces a few kms away from us, runs above ground for about 10 kms and then runs back underground. That is why the camel camps are here - access to the river.
Our guide Bayarmar negotiated the rides and we started getting on our bactrian (two humped) camels.
And off we went. The lead camel was led by the farmer walking ahead, and each rider held the reins of the camel to their right and behind. The first group had four camels and my group had three, with me in the middle.
Here is a video I managed to shoot while holding the reins for Franz's camel and holding onto my camel's front hump.
After the camel ride, we visited the camel farmer's ger. I had hot goat milk tea, dried goat cheese with sugar and goat yogurt. His wife had handmade things to sell. His children were cute. We got to see what it is like to really live in a ger. There is no running water nearby - it must be fetched. As Julia Roberts learned in the video "Wild Horses of Mongolia" - there are no toilet facilities. But they have solar panels for electricity, satellite TV and multiple motorized vehicles in addition to the camels, goats and other livestock.
Here is a short video I took inside the farmer's ger. I then played it back to the children and parents. Everytime the girl saw the replay, she broke into a marvelous smile - I replayed it several times for her.
After the 90 minute camel ride, we set off in our trusty van and somehow safely drove across the river and to the sand dunes. We stayed there for about 30 minutes, then made the amazing trip back. After we got back across the river and up onto the riverbank, we broke out with cheers for the driver and his van - it was an amazing feat.
Back at the ger camp, cold beers and an amazing four course meal - salad, soup an entree plate of, sauteed onions and potatoes, cole slaw with seaweed, beef goulash and pasta, followed by cake for dessert.
This is what the ceiling looked like in our ger.
And so ended our second day in the Gobi.
YAY!!!!! Thank GAWWWWWD you saw and rode the camels!!!!! - I might not have been able to speak to you again had you passed up that lifetime opportunity!!!!
ReplyDeleteYes, but as noted - I am still sore six days later.
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